Carputer

Learning mode

2004-09-02T16:25:00.000-07:00

So apparently the Remote Turn On Lead (RTOL) off the head unit is no different than the ACC line, 12v when the car is running or ignition is in accesory setting. Seeing as I don't really want to feed 12v to the power switch jumper on the mobo I'll need a different solution.

Solution:

I should be able to extend the connections to the power switch on the inverter itself and mount them near the driver's seat, this switch can be used for powering up the carputer and cutting power when the car is shut off, this way I don't need access to an ACC line.

More Progress

2004-09-02T10:02:00.000-07:00

The Carputer works off 12v in the house now! I took an old 12v 7.0Ah gel battery and hooked it to the cigarette adapter on the inverter and plugged the PC into the inverter, as soon as power was applied it powered up and it came out of hibernation and started playing music just where it left off. Yeah!

I also wanted to mention MP3Car.Com, this is the website that at least half my current ideas and knowledge have been sponged from.

I just posted my first forum question there now, I'll put it here too in case anyone knows the answer.

Remote turn on lead? (Super Noob)

I hope this hasn't been covered ten times already, I searched for it but didn't find anything.

I am building my first version of a carputer and have a question;

My system so far consists of a Pioneer head unit linked to an Amp and Crossover in the trunk. My understanding so far is that the 12v line connecting the crossover and amp in the trunk is live all the time but that the devices only turn on when they receive a signal over the Remote Turn On Lead that connects to them from the Pioneer, correct?

Assuming that it correct and that I connect the power for the PC, through an inverter until my Opus comes, off the 12v line that goes to the trunk that means the inverter will be powered up 24/7. does anyone know if the remote turn on lead from the dead unit can be used to activate the momentary contact power switch on the motherboard?

Cos

Hibernation

2004-09-02T09:25:00.000-07:00

The MediaCar software starts playing music about 15 seconds faster than Frodoplayer... when it works. Unfortunately when coming out of hibernation MediaCar often doesn't work, it kills the soundcard too until I reboot.

Frodoplayer always works coming out of hibernation but the interface is ugly and it take over 60 seconds to start playing music compared to 45 for MediaCar.

Neither of them gives me what I want... list artists names, click on artist and get list of albums, click on album and play begina.

Progress

2004-08-31T15:41:00.000-07:00

Started setting up the parts for the pc on my desk last night, found 384mb of old ram to throw in and did a fresh install of WinXP, installed MediaCar and FrodoPlayer, will see which works better. So far Frodoplayer, while not as pretty, seems a lot more stable.

Installed Windows patches and some music to test with, currently hibernation is working well, the only problem is the old IBM motherboard is amazingly slow to boot, sits at the bios screen for nearly 30 seconds, using MediaCar my power-button press to music playing time is about 46 seconds so far.

BOOM BOOM BOOM!

2004-08-30T10:32:00.000-07:00

Sub box is back in, amp and crossover remounted and powered, stereo sounds as good as ever (which is a solid OK)

Moved the Orion amp from under the seat to the trunk so had to get more power cable from a local car audio shop, asked him to suggest how thick a guage I should get, told him it was for a 230watt amp and a 150 watt power supply for the computer... blank stares and then the expected questions and a surprising amount of baseless 'A computer won't work in a car' type statements... ten minutes and $21 later I walked out with ten feet of 7 guage power wire.

2004-08-26T21:45:00.000-07:00

Key features

* LCD screen size: 7 "diagonal (15.2 x 9.4 cm)
* Ratio: 16:9 wide TFT LCD screen, high resolution: resolution: 800 x 3 x 480 = 1,152,000 dots
* Support computer display resolution up to 1024 x 768back of touch screen monitor
* LCD brightness: w/o touch screen) - 400 cd/m2; w/ touch screen): 280 cd/m2
* Contrast: 200:1
* Multi Video system: PAL/NTSC
* VGA and 2 composite Video inputs plus 1 Audio input
* Touchscreen display (USB interface)
* Credit card size IR remote control
* Full function OSD control (Multi-language)
* Audio output: Speaker built-in & earphone jack
* Video input signal: 1.0Vp-p, composite video
* No radiation (better for eyes protection)
* Compact slim panel: 18.7 x 12.5 x 3.3 cm only, net weight 425 g
* Computer display/S-video/DVD/VCD/Security system/Navigation system compatible, (Rear view camera connectible)
* Mount type: Dash board / Universal
* Power input: DC 12V, Power consumption: 9W

2004-08-26T21:44:00.000-07:00

TOUCHSCREEN LCD!

This appears to be the display most people are using in their carputer projects, I've read up on it yesterday and today and will link a pic and specs, looks really cool. Am also checking out software to run with it, will report on what I find.

Every Carputer begins with a single wire

2004-08-26T21:35:00.000-07:00

Cleaned out the trunk today (found 3 screwdrivers and a rachet), put the sub box back in (still have to mount it) and started tracing wires to see what goes where from when I tore everything out... why why why didn't I mark the leftover wires???

What I have.

2004-08-25T15:08:00.000-07:00

The starting point for the Carputer system is:

Board: some crappy old proprietary IBM board from work
CPU: PIII-600
RAM: Dunno, have to look around
HD: WD40GB
Power: Not sure, will see if I can use the 150w DC-AC adapter I have for now
Display: None yet.

First thing I need to do is make sure the board's power connection is standard so that the Opus power adapter can be used, will check this out tonight.

What I want.

2004-08-25T14:59:00.000-07:00

Basically when the system is done I want to have:

Board: Via Nano-ITX
CPU: C3 1.2Ghz
RAM: 1gb RIMM (laptop ram)
Boot Drive: 512Mb CF Card on a CF-IDE adapter
HD: two 80gb 2.5" drives
Power: Opus 150 watt DC-DC power supply
I want to mount these items in the glove box if possible.

Display: 7.5" Touchscreen LCD

Obviously I am a long way from this system now so I'm going to start with what I have to work with now and hopefully upgrade to the above system a piece at a time.

Initial thoughts/ideas/choices

2004-08-25T10:19:00.000-07:00

System Core: ATX, mATX, Mini-ITX, Nano-ITX?
CPU: Full sized power/size cpu, mobile cpu, embedded cpu?
Hard drive: 2.5", 3.5"?
Power: DC-DC, DC-AC-DC?
Monitor: VGA, LCD, Touchscreen, None?
Input: Keyboard, Mouse, Both, Neither, Other?

There are a ton of choices, I've done some research already but have a fair bit more to do before I am sure of what I want, likely I'll do up two lists; wanted system and reality system... boo.

System Core:

Most of the car based systems I've researched seem to be based around the Via Mini-ITX boards with built in Via CPU's. The Pro's being: low power comsumption, 10w-30w, simplicity, board and chip are one and low heat generation. The bad parts being the low performance and that they are not as flexible or upgradable as a standard chip/board combo. I have about 80gbs of MP3's and doing anything with them like rebuilding a winamp media library or organizing them is pretty slow on my server in the house which is an old PIII-600, probably pretty comparable to the Via chips in performance.

Hard Drive:

Unless I can get my hands on a large 2.5" (laptop) hard drive for cheap I'll likely have to go with what I already have, a full size 3.5" drive. Other than the cost/capacity factor the 3.5" drive loses every pro/con arguement, the 2.5" drives are more rugged, use less power, are smaller and are less noisy.

Power:

I already have a DC-AC converter that I used last month to power a laptop in a car for a roadtrip from which I've learned that; a) 75w is not enough and b) the converter cannot shield the computer enough to prevent rebooting during engine starts. A DC-DC converter runs cooler, is more efficient and adds the ability to protect the system from low/high voltages during engine starts and such.

Monitor:

The display is certainly going to the the big ticket item for this whole install, from what I've read so far it seems like a touch screen is the best option, I need to read a lot more tho and there is still the price issue... probably looking at $500+

Input:

Need to think up a simple solution for keyboard and mouse, the touchscreen will be the primary interface but I'm sure there will be times when a keyboard is needed.Wireless?

A computer for my car

2004-08-25T10:13:00.000-07:00

First off a goal - A computer in my car, simple. What I want to end up with is;

- Computer accessable from inside car, avoiding trunk mount if possible.
- Boot up time >20 seconds.
- Easily usable and customizable user interface. (touchscreen?, voice?)